If you are a slave to otherworldly sweets, confidence is high you know Anthony Chavez’s work:
The award-winning pastry chef continues working his magic at 2941, spinning out such memorable closers as a cacao-dusted frozen truffle draped in caramel sauce and pecan streusel, and a gold leaf-flecked sponge cake saturated with Maker’s Mark and Tahitian vanilla.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
AC: Ceylon cinnamon, it is the purest form of cinnamon. It has the best well rounded flavor which pair very well with chocolate. Valentine’s Day, each guest will receive complimentary chocolate made with Ceylon cinnamon. We are calling it the “chocolate red hots.”
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered? How long did it take? Do you still make it today?
AC: I don’t think I have ever mastered a dessert. Trends are always evolving and to keep up with them I create new desserts as well revisit old desserts, making then better than before.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
AC: Rhubarb. I love the sourness rhubarb brings. When you see rhubarb at the market you know spring is in here and that means more fruit is on the way.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
AC: The Internet. I know it is not a book however there is a lot of information posted on chef blogs, restaurant and pastry shop websites and school websites. Some of my favorites are Christophe Michalak, Patrick Roger and The Culinary Institute of America.
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you make it again?
AC: An arborio rice pudding with a white truffle ice cream. I would try it again in the right setting. On our a la carte menu it had problems selling. I think people don’t think of mushrooms when they think of desserts.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to collaborate with …
AC: Chris Ford from Trummers. He has a very clean style and his flavors are straight forward and creative.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for yourself?
AC: Brioche with homemade jam. I love making brioche because it is 20 minutes of work and 2 hours of proofing.
Meyer Lemon Brioche
5 ¼ ounces (151 g.) water
2/3 ounce (19 g.) fresh yeast
3 eggs
1 tablespoon (5 g.) vanilla extract
2 pieces Meyer lemon zest
1 pound (453 g.) all-purpose flour
4 ounces (113 g.) sugar
¼ teaspoon (2 g.) + pinch sea salt
4 ounces (113 g.) butter
*Rhubarb Confiture
9 ounces (250 g.) rhubarb, sliced
9 ounces (250 g.) vanilla sugar
½ ounces (15 g.) lemon Juice
Confiture Method
Day One
Combine the rhubarb and vanilla sugar in a pot.
Slowly bring mixture to a boil.
Remove from heat, wrap pot with plastic, refrigerate overnight.
Day Two
Strain the rhubarb-vanilla juice, reserving the rhubarb.
Place juice in a pot and cook until the juice has thickened and reads 106 degrees Celsius on a candy thermometer.
Return the rhubarb, simmer 3-5 more minutes, add the lemon juice and cool.
Brioche Method
Day One
Combine water, yeast, 2 eggs, lemon zest and vanilla in a mixing bowl.
Add the flour, sugar and ¼ tsp salt. With a dough hook, mix until the dough is smooth and shiny on medium speed for approximately 8 minutes.
Add half of the butter and mix on low speed for 3 minutes.
Add the remaining half of the butter and mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
Remove from the mixer and place into a bowl. Allow to rise until the dough has doubled in size. Press out the fermented gases in the brioche with your hand.
Place the brioche into the refrigerator for 2 hours. Press out the fermented gases a second time. Place the brioche in the refrigerator overnight.
Day Two
Remove brioche from the refrigerator and place dough into a standard loaf pan. Allow to rise in a warm oven (190 degrees Fahrenheit) for about two hours or until the dough has tripled in size. Whisk 1 egg and a pinch of salt together. Brush the top of the brioche with the egg.
Bake in a 360 F oven for 20-25 minutes.
Remove from the loaf pan and place onto a cooling rack.
Serve warm with the rhubarb confiture.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
AC: Spring menu. We will feature all the spring fruits including strawberries, rhubarb and Meyer lemons. Spring is my favorite time of year to make desserts.
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
AC: Guinness. It is like drinking a late-night cup of joe.
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Chef, your zen-like patience is inspiring. No way I could wait 48 hours for my favorite snack.
Come back next Tuesday for another helping of Red Meat.
–Warren